BMW 3.0CS - Other Notes
I'm using 840 calipers and rotors up front and 540 rotors and boxter rear calipers on the back. I switched to 530 hubs
on the front and also used 530 axles on the back. I had to make centering rings for the front hubs to hold the rotors
centered and then modified the rear swingarms to accept some 535 backing plates, because the parking brakes are
bigger on the 540 rotors. I built caliper adaptors for both the front and rear. I'm going to use the Tilton dual master
cylinder balance bar assembly, and Tilton worked out the sizing and said that I need a .700 inch front master cylinder
for the front and a .825 inch master cylinder for the rear. This setup gives lots of clearance for installing my M5
engine and should put some real stopping power in this car. Good luck with your project. Leroy
Here's the suggestion from Cheap Charlie: use your old carpet as templates for new carpet at your local carpet
store. Since the original material isn't 3-D (molded), you can get way more plush stuff, with padding, in a greater
choice of (non-original) colors for probably a lot less than you'll pay for "the real thing". It'll feel better on your
tootsies, and quieter as well.
One thing to note: you'll want the exposed edges bound. My calls indicate that hereabouts in sunny Hawaii, this will
cost about a dollar a running foot. The color and material of the edge binding can be varied, for some nice trim
WINDOW MOTOR UPGRADE - E28 REAR
They fit both front and rear. You can only use the rear E28 motors and you just have to figure out the wiring. It is
really not that difficult to do. I have 4 E28 rear motors in my coupe and they all work just great. They also are a lot
faster than the coupe motors. It was easier for me to do though because I am using the E28 wiring harness, but they
bolt right in. In the front you have to modify the door a little, but nothing a dremel can't do.
Jason Griffith wrote: > so rumor has it that cs's have absolutely lethargic window motors in the > back windows. just
reading about cleaning & oiling, is that all that needs > to be done to speed these windows up a tad? > jason
Thirty year old electric windows can be subject to many degradations of power which contribute to sluggishness. A
complete tune up of the window system would be as follows:
1, Switches - corrosion can build up on the contacts and the plug in socket - Remove each switch, disassemble by
squeezing the long axis of the sides of the switch case near the chrome bezel ring and carefully pry the bezel upward.
If you break the bezel it can be glued to the switch body on reassembly. New switches are around $30. Empty the
contents of the dwitch onto a work surface and clean the inside of the switch with spray contact cleaner, a tooth
brush, and use emery paper to remove any burnt buildup at the contact points in the switch. Put a small dab of
silicone dielectric grease (No, NOT Astro Glide. You people in San Francisco... Stop tittering!) on each sliding contact
and the small ball and bar part and reassemble. On the new type circular prong and socket switches, clean each
male prong and female socket with contact cleaner, dab on silicone grease and reassemble.
2. Wiring - check each connector to see that it is tight and the wires are not frayed or insulation burnt or cracked.
3. Motor/gear assembly - After removing the side pannel clean the window gear mechanism of all clotted grease (it
can get thick and gummy and slow things down considerably). Clean the sliding contact points of the regulator arms
and the window guides of all grease, If your window was not working, turn the motor shaft by hand to make sure the
motor is not jammed and that the nylon gears are not chewed up. Now try the newly cleaned switch to see if the motor
works. If it is not jammed but the switch still does not operate the motor, apply power directly to the leads to determine
if the motor or wiring is at fault. Replace as necessary.
Check that the circular rubber stop on a metal shaft at the top of the mechanism is in good shape. It is held on to the
mechanism by a nut and can come adrift, allowing the window to go past the normal limit and jam. If the part is not
there, search in the door or quarter panel cavity where it MAY be found rolling around causing that annoying rattle
that you have been living with for X amount of time. Relube the gears and sliding parts with a THIN COATING OF
NEVERSIEZE. Resist the temptation to slather it on - when the solvents eventually evaporate you want a thin film of
graphite on the parts - not dirt catching globbs of muck such as you may have found when you cleaned the
Reassemble the whole mechanism, test, and put the pannels/seats back in. Your windows should operate much